All-Inclusive Guana Island resort in the British Virgin Islands

If there is a more romantic spot in all the British Virgin Islands than Guana Island, then geology and the hand of man has yet to create it. Guana is a hidden BVI gem, a private island near Tortola that's an enclave of exquisite, all-inclusive service spread over 850 acres of mountainous beauty. Guana has seven pristine beaches; the main one, White Bay Beach, was a best-of pick by Caribbean Travel and Leisure. Guana's size and limited number of guests (32 max) means if White Bay Beach has more than a handful of folks on it, it is deemed crowded.

Each of Guana's cottages is named for an island in the Caribbean. During our first stay, we had Eleuthra, straddling the spine of a hill and affording us outstanding views of Muskmelon Bay to the left, Long Man's Point to the right, and the U.S. Virgin Islands dead ahead. Even the view from our bathroom was better than most rooms you'll stay in at other resorts, with White Bay Beach right below and bougainvillea, Pride of Barbados, and other floral delights framing the doorway. The cottage itself was simple and well-appointed, with a bed near the window that gave us perhaps the best wake-up call possible, the sun and morning breeze streaming warmly through. For exceptional privacy, check out North Beach Cottage far from the main area, accessible by golf cart.

North Beach Cottage on Guana Island

There is only one dining area on Guana, in the main building known as the Great House, which has some of the best dining views in the Caribbean, most notably on Queen's Terrace, named in honor of the Queen Mother's visit in 1964. Meals here are fabulous, made more so by the spectacular sunsets and St. Thomas's twinkle in the distance when darkness descends. On one of our Guana visits, we supped on creamy spinach soup, crunchy duck, and pan-fried flounder with spicy pineapple salsa accompanied by an explosively red sunset that almost made us forget how extraordinary the food was.

For daytime dining, opt for White Bay Terrace overlooking bougainvillea-bursting hillsides sweeping down to the bay's tourquoise waters. We also had breakfast on a terrace on the other side of the Great House, bathed in sunlight and the sweet scent of nearby jasmine. Breakfast is a dining dream come true as well, from fresh fruit grown on Guana to eggs any style and mango crepes with mascarpone cream. You can justify eating such exceptional food by knowing you'll walk it all off on the myriad of hiking trails criss-crossing the island.

Rooms are tastefully appointed but not lush; nothing is over the top, the design is simple, elegant, sufficient, owing perhaps to the island's history as a Quaker sugar plantation centuries ago. Evidence of this past history still exists in rusting cannon and the foundation of an old sugar mill near Flamingo Pond, named for the graceful pink birds that dwell there. There are no TVs in the rooms, but there is wireless throughout the island, should the need arise to stay connected with the outside world you're trying to escape from.

Guana's beaches are the main amenity, and White Bay Beach is the most glorious, a half-mile stretch of pure powder sand. At this beach is a small bar where you can get drinks or snacks to take to your lounge chairs, either in the sun or beneath a giant shade tree where you can also sway in hammocks. Massages are also available in your room or, better yet, by the beach which with a warm wind washing over you as your tired muscles are kneaded into splendid submission, seems a much better option.

Guana hosts special dining events from time to time, and on one Tuesday night of our stay we enjoyed a beach barbecue with a band and dancing, along with a most unusual and delightfully entertaining hermit crab race.

There are two main choices of activities on Guana: Do absolutely everything or do absolutely nothing. Either way, you win. There is snorkeling in abundance all around the island, and you can use the island's kayaks, Hobie Wave, or Sunfish to explore the nearby waters. One day, I opted for a one-person sea kayak and paddled around the White Bay bend to the windy waters beyond, stopping to bob in the waves and stare up at the island's main protuberance, which looks like a giant iguana head, and gave the island its name. For additional fees, you can water ski, scuba dive, or arrange a private fishing charter. Land activities include tennis (two beautiful courts), volleyball, bocce, ping pong, badminton, horseshoes, and croquet.

Hiking on Guana Island