The beauty of an island like Antigua, some 108 square miles in size, is that it's not terribly hard to get from one point to another, especially if you're of a mind to keep Caribbean time -- you get there when you get there. English Harbour is a gorgeously restored historic district keyed around the 15-square-miles of Nelson's Dockyard National Park, and well worth a visit. It had been a base for the British Navy in the long-gone days of powerful sailing ships ruling the world's ocean, and served as headquarters of the fleet for the Leeward Islands in the late 18th century.
Though the dockyard was expanded by the legendary British admiral and war hero, Horatio Nelson, it was largely abandoned in the 19th century and shut down as a base by 1889. The dockyard's current status is one of loving restoration and is the only remaining Georgian dockyard in the world. Most of the park's sites overlook the boat-dotted harbor.
One such site of note is Clarence House, a residence built for the future King William IV (1765-1835) when he was but a captain of the H.M. S. Pegasus, serving under Nelson.
Also nearby is Shirley Heights, site of the partially restored colonial observation post that was once part of the harbor's immense and imposing fortification complex. The area is named for General Shirley, governor of the Leeward Islands in the late 18th century. Near here is a cemetery marked by obelisk, honoring soldiers of the 54th Regiment.
The view from the heights is astounding, affording glimpses of Montserrat and Guadeloupe in the distance, the former the home of a very active volcano. Shirley Heights on Sundays comes alive with live music and barbecue, and is accessible by a nature trail from the harbor.
Along the trail is the Dow's Hill Interpretation Center, a must-see as it explains via multimedia presentation Antigua's glorious history from settlement through independence. Observation decks in the area give visitors incredible harbor views and glimpses of the remains of Fort Berkeley across the harbor, which was begun in 1704, before the dockyard was built. This majestic fortification on a peninsula is home of a 24-pound cannon cast in Scotland in 1805. On it is the King's cipher, still visible. It is a monster gun, 5.5 inches in diameter and a full 25 tons, taking 11 men to work it. This cannon could fire balls a mile and a half powered by an eight-pound gunpowder charge.
After all that historic grazing in Antigua's storied past, indulge in its present, a myriad of dining, imbibing and shopping options all within walking distance in English Harbour. The place is really hopping in spring during Antigua's Sailing Week, one of the sailing world's premier regattas.